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Here are some links:

Atomic 7’s Revolutionary Ice Cream

City Center’s Cell-Phone Techno-Fail

WET Design’s Aquatic Marvels

Inside The First US Bodypainting Championships

Crime (Kinda) Pays: Vegas Mob Lieutenant Frank Cullotta

Pursuing The Perfect Vegas Buffet

Playmate Vs. Food: Laura Croft Meets Vegas’ Biggest Burrito

Inside the Palms’ New Barbie Fantasy Suite

Sam Butera, R.I.P.

A Vegas To-Do List for President Obama

Three Questions with Ernie Isley

Previewing the Hardbat Table Tennis Tournament

All E.C. Gladstone stories on LasVegasWeekly.com

Langer's Pastrami Plate

Like many other “counter foods,” pastrami has been getting a lot of attention lately from foodie circles, and nowhere more than Los Angeles, home of Langer’s–which many claim to have the best pastrami in the country (Katz’s fans…hold on, hold on). These past few weeks I had the chance to return there, and try a few other LA pastramis, with some interesting results.

First, some background: Despite the sound of the word, pastrami is not, in fact, Italian. According to web sources, it’s an Americanization of the word “pastrome” (in Yiddish via Turkish) or “bastourma” (Armenian), meaning “preserved.” The recipe first appeared here with the immigration of Romanian Jews, in New York City, in 1887 when Morgen’s and Katz’s Delis first appeared on the Lower East Side. Interestingly, goose breast was the original meat that was brined, seasoned (a mix of garlic, coriander, black pepper, paprika, cloves, allspice, and mustard seed is typical), smoked and steamed in this process–making turkey pastrami actually closer to the “real thing.” But in the US, beef brisket or navel—the cut behind brisket, not actual “navels”–were cheaper cuts to use.

Growing up on the East Coast, where pastrami was everywhere, I always assumed that the difference between this and Corned Beef was mainly the cut of beef—Pastrami there tends to be drier, more stringy, and very peppery. The real difference (other than perhaps seasoning variations) is that pastrami is smoked and steamed after brining, corned beef is boiled.

In either case, it was a method of preserving and making palatable a cheap cut of meat. Which means we should never see “Kobe” Pastrami. Although nothing would surprise me with that trend anymore.

Being a city that grew up with a significant Jewish presence—thanks mostly to the movie industry—LA still has its share of delis and other places regularly serving pastrami and its ilk, but few are truly inspiring. Nate & Al’s and Art’s are acceptable, but uninspiring; Greenblatt’s and Factor’s might be slightly better, but would still be nothing out of the norm in New Jersey or Long Island. Canter’s and the Jerry’s chain really don’t present anything above normal supermarket or diner level food. [And believe it or not, about 10 years ago when Milton Berle was still alive and a friend belonged to the Beverly Hills Friar’s Club, I found their corned beef to be the best I’d had in LA. But I expect that isn’t the case any more].

When Langer’s Deli opened catercorner from the southeast corner of MacArthur (nee Westlake) park, it was in the middle of a formerly fashionable but still bustling neighborhood highlighted by the Westlake theatre and grand Park Plaza hotel. The neighborhood is still bustling today, but with a very different accent—a very working class Latino accent. That Langer’s has endured to become something of a national treasure (as the gold tone James Beard stickers on the laminated menus indicate) is a tribute to temerity, or insanity. But after years when many were afraid to stop their cars on Alvarado, it now thrives.

What sets Langer’s pastrami apart is its thick cut and impressive tenderness, far from stringy brisket. Making navel as tender as good roast beef is no mean feat. Still, my most recent sampling had big veins of fat running through (no wonder it’s so tender) and a relatively mild flavor, far from over-salted, despite a significant crust. Quite frankly, it’s about an inch from corned beef, as I’m accustomed to it, which may or may not be what you expect. The bread, from Bea’s in Tarzana (which is connected to another modest deli, Mort’s) is round rather than the typical oblong, with a crispy crust and downy softness inside.

I think this is the "dieter' special" lol

My lunchmates and I decided to split a platter (see above), which even after they charge you for extra bread is still a better  deal than single sandwiches, including creamy cole slaw, incredibly sweet baked beans, crispy crinkle fries, Swiss cheese, a big scoop of chopped liver and passable pickles. Their liver deserves special mention—mealy rather than pasty like most, it has a very fresh, mild flavor.

Is it the best in the country? Since every piece of meat is different, I don’t even think that’s a fair question to pose. I’ve eaten at Katz’s Deli on Houston St. in New York many times, and while I initially loved it, at my last visit I found it altogether ordinary. Second Avenue Deli used to be great, too, but served a more typical semi-dry pastrami. Langer’s is impressive in some ways, but depending on your sense of what pastrami “should be,” it’s not the end of the rainbow.

Brent's #2

An institution in the San Fernando Valley, 60’s vintage Brent’s deli resides in a nondescdript Northridge strip mall. Their pastrami seems to have been crafted in direct opposition to Langer’s style. Here the fat is trimmed and the meat is paper thin, red and peppery. You are directed to order the #2 sandwich—a double decker of pastrami and corned beef, with an extra piece of rye in the middle (very atypical), tomato (vine-ripened they say) and a very mild Russian dressing. This makes sense, because a whole sandwich of pastrami when properly made ought to give you an instant heart attack. The crusty rye here I would give a slight advantage over Bea’s (and the pickles beat Langer’s). The combination makes a great balance, and though I couldn’t finish it in one sitting, the leftovers were gone by nightfall. Fries here are typical thick-cuts (i.e. meh) but who ever said French fries were really deli food anyway?

If you go for the sandwich-and-a-half deal here, either your eyes are bigger than your stomach, or you have a serious deathwish. Their desserts are equally daunting. There is a second location in Westlake Village near the 101.

A surprise in my pastrami pathfinding came when I visited The Oinkster in hipper-by-the-minute Eagle Rock (the hood I call home). Calling its cuisine “slow fast food,” Oinkster puts surprising care into its sandwiches and salads, in contrast to its converted vintage burger drive-in location. Their pastrami, they say, is cured for two weeks then applewood smoked. Typically served in a “wrap” it is bright red, and peppery as all get out. Wow. Not even a huge portion, but still takes time to finish. Serious and intense, and unforgettable. I would put this in a top ten of all sandwiches in LA, seriously.

I’ve had their pulled pork before, and it acquits itself respectably too. The “Belgian” fries are not really as earth-shattering as some have said, but they serve sautéed plantains, and an Ube (purple yam) shake with Fosselman’s (Alhambra) ice cream that is Out. Of. This. World…thick, creamy, sweet, just a little ice-crispy, and allegedly filled with anti-oxidants. WINTL. I’ll get to their burgers and PB&J cupcakes one of these days.

My last stop in this parade of pastrami (for now, anyway) was the Eastside Market, a Downtown/Chavez Ravine-area institution that is as hidden as it is well-regarded. On Alpine street, South of Beaudry/East of Sunset, this 80-year-old Italian deli is on the edge of what used to be Little Italy and probably did a booming biz before the freeway cut it off.

Who am I kidding? While it’s really just a lunch place now (the produce is long gone, even if there’s still a shelf of olive oils and such), the dark, concrete-floored almost windowless space still does a booming business, thanks largely to the dedicated clientele from the nearby Police academy and other civil servants (the expected signed Dodgers jersey and City Proclamation decorate the walls alongside pics of Sinatra and…the freeways). One look at the tough guys behind the counter and you know you’re in for a no-nonsense experience.

The cold case at Eastside Market

The menu here is mostly typical Italian deli hot and cold options, served on plain grinder rolls from a relatively compact counter behind a cold case filled (and I mean, stuffed) with proscuitto, sopressata and other imported salumi. Because it looked like a popular choice, I ordered the #7, hot pastrami and roast beef with provolone under sauce—sort of an “Italian dip,” if you will. They give you a fork with it for a reason. Don’t try to pick it up before eating at least half. The pastrami was tender, a bit fatty and chewy, very flavorful but still not super salty—somewhere between Langer’s meat and guanciale, to be honest. The sauce was stewed peppers, tomatoes and other veggies, a bit watery, nothing remarkable. The roast beef was overdone and quite plain for an Italian deli. That doesn’t mean I didn’t finish it—but next time here, I think I’ll go for the cold cut combo.

Number Seven

Perhaps the owners stuccoed over the front windows when the neighborhood was rougher—I kind of wish they’d let some light in again. But considering they seem to be printing money as it is, why mess around?

There are other pastrami notables in LA, too: The Hat, known for serving pastrami au jus, and the Kosher Burrito, basically a Mexican burrito with pastrami, a peculiar LA delicacy that emerged in downtown LA when a Jewish Deli near City Hall started getting requests for burritos from Mexicans moving in to the neighborhood. Or so the legend goes. Since it dates at least to the 1940s, it might be considered one of the first modern “fusion” foods. The Hat still has several locations on the fringes of LA county (Pasadena is the closest to central LA). The Kosher Burrito is gone, but its legacy lives on in many burrito joints around the “Southland.”

Oh Lordy. This is the array of glasses that greeted us at the very first event.

Wanting to celebrate Aureole’s tenth anniversary, and perhaps remind everyone that in this age of exploding wine destinations, they were (among) the first on the Strip, William Sherer MS, Kevin Dimond and Vincent Pouessel—the Mandalay Bay restaurant’s Wine Director, General Manager and Executive Chef—organized a sponsor-free Wine Weekend June 12-14 (2009) that was most remarkable for its purity of spirit. Some of the 69 wines (!) poured over two afternoon pate and salmon curing events, two lengthy dinners and a Sunday morning kitchen brunch/dessert demo by Executive Pastry Chef Megan Romano, in fact can only be found at auction.

Chef Pouessel demonstrates the art of foie gras while Megan Romano observes.

Though the event (pricey at nearly $800 a person, but something of a bargain in the balance) attracted only a couple dozen gourmands from around the country, it was enough to inspire the restaurant to beginning planning a sequel immediately.

2010’s edition, just announced, looks to be more impressive. Events are set to include: A “blend your own Sauvignon Blanc” competition; A dinner exploring the “four corners” of Tuscany wine and cuisine; An interactive breakfast in the kitchen; A barbeque and “spicy red” blending competition; A Southern Rhone pairing dinner; A Sunday morning Bordeaux tasting; and another chocolate and sparkling wine pairing.

Here are just a few of the remarkable pours we enjoyed last year–with comments from Willi:

Fresh charcuterie and pate presentation

•Pouilly-Fumé, Didier Dagueneau, Silex 2002 (retail around $165)

Very “Summery” Loire Valley white, with strong pear, green apple, grapefruit notes

“There’s a density of flavor, not a thin wine, very dense and concentrated flavors, yet refreshing. Dageneau is the master emeritus.”

•Savenniéres, Baumard 1988

Crisp, mineral, French-oaky Chenin-Blanc which pairs with pate and charcuterie particularly well.

Smoked salmon & trout presentation. I cleaned this plate--and normally I hate salmon.

“Hard-to-find cellar vintage. Holds up incredibly well. Baumard is one of the masters of Anjou. Savennieres is one of the few dry Chenin-Blancs in the Loire.”

•Vouvray, Huet, “Clos du Bourg,” Moelleux Demi-Sec 1962

With a rich golden color betraying its age, this lightly sweet Loire classic has surprisingly crisp green apple flavor and exceptional balance.

“Re-releases from the domain that we got at auction for around $300. The primary flavors break down into complex perfume at that age.”

Will Sherer and I pose with one of the more esteemed dead soldiers.

•Cote-Roti, Rostaing Landonne, 2003 (retail around $175)

“A beautiful sweet smoky meat character with cracked pepper, blackberry, blueberry fruit, which blended very well with smoked duck.”

•Riesling, Breuer, “Montosa Charta,” Rheingau, Germany 1997 (retail around $20)

A dry Riesling with strong citrus notes, light on the palate.

“This is their apex blend, designed to be aged. Ripping acid. More lemony than the apricot-peach young german Riesling.

Megan Romano demonstrates chocolate-making.

•Gruner Veltliner, Huber, “Berg,” Traisental, Austria 2004 (retail around $30)

Sharp aromatic white, light yet still complex.

“A regional hero, Berg is a historic vineyard. A subdued medley of nectarine and white flower components with minerals more front and center.

•Syrah, Columbia, “Red Willow,” Columbia Valley 1988 (retail around $150)

A rich red with citrus and tobacco notes, very rewarding.

“Concentrated, depth of flavor, traditional winemaking, dry blackberry spice and complex earthy flavors, cracked pepper, tobacco.”

•Syrah, McCrea, “Amerique,” Columbia Valley 2000 (retail around $34)

The softer side of syrahs, an excellent pairing partner (we had sole and oysters, believe it or not).

“McCrea is a specialist with syrah and viognier, juicy soft textured fruit that tastes good young but ages well.”

Megan Romano handmade chocolates

•Cabernet Sauvignon, Martin Estates, Reserve, Napa 2001 (retail around $99)

Beefy, jammy cab that can stop conversation in its tracks.

“Cabernet is king, it has so much flavor up front, you get hit with dense cassis, black olive, roasted bell pepper.”

•Cabernet Sauvignon, Beaulieu Vineyards, “George de Latour,” 1976

The kind of complex wine that legitimized California, practically perfect in every way.

“A little bit of American Oak, pristine bottle of a great vintage. It had the bottle-aged perfume, but also carmelized fruit compote”

•Moscato d’Asti, Dante Rivetti, Piemonte, Italy 2007 (retail around $15)

Lovely sparkling wine with strong pear, peach and apricot sweetness, something to enliven a brunch

“Natural fruit flavors, like biting into a peach.”

•Brachetto d’Acqui, Giacomo Bologna, Piemonte, Italy 2007 (retail around $25)

One of Italy’s rare lightly sparkling reds, a sour cherry celebration that would make a picnic unforgettable.

“A very authentic style with a sense of place, an earthy tone with a little rose, pomegranate, half-sparkling and just a touch of sweetness”

A few weeks ago, I published a short Q&A with surviving Vegas mob member-turned-informant Frank Cullotta, on the occasion of his appearance for a discussion in Vegas. But since my colleague John Katsilometes reported today about Mayor Oscar Goodman’s tour of the forthcoming Mob Museum site, I thought it would be a worthwhile to publish the entire unedited interview with Mr. Cullotta, including his interesting remarks about the Mob museum, and Mr. Goodman. Enjoy…

Frank, this isn’t the first time you’ve made an appearance like this since coming out of the Witness Protection Program. What do you you get out of doing this?

“Do I get anything personally out of doing…? Satisfaction of putting people on the right track, let people know what it’s really about. They’re hearing it first hand from a guy that’s been there, instead of seeing it in movies and all that baloney, ‘Cause half of that stuff is so much exaggerated too. So they’re gonna hear it first hand from me, and it makes me feel good that I’m passing the message on, just like I do when I do it in front of these different organizations, law enforcement and stuff like that.

I imagine that for a lot of the people you speak to, they see the glamour in the world you lived in, and I wonder if that makes it harder to set the record straight.

“Well, even setting the record straight, I’ve had these speeches before, and people still like what they hear, and it’s not glamorized, I just tell it like it is, you know, I mean, I don’t exaggerate anything, but it’s still got enough kick that they enjoy hearing it. So I guess my message gets across pretty good without any exaggeration, So they come away with a lot of questions for me. They like to talk to me one-on-one afterward.

What do people ask you about the most?

“Well, the strangest thing people ask me is how it felt to kill somebody. I think that’s sort of a weird question. And how did you have to do these things, are you ordered to do these things, and what happens if you don’t do these things, the consequences that would take place, and uh, ah, basic stuff, that’s about it really.

Is that the weirdest question you’ve ever gotten?

“I dunno, they seem like they’re all a little weird to me, the questions, but two things I get asked, what would you do if you had it to do over again? What I tell people, I am what I am today because of yesterday, so I have nothing to change about it. And that’s just the way I feel about it. [gets quieter] I am how I am today because of the way I was.

And from what I know about your past, you were really born into the life.

“Well I was, I was. I grew up in that neighborhood where everybody was either a cop, a fireman, or a gangster. I come from that background, I had no other way to go. I don’t think I had any other choice, cause I thought tough choices were the ones I had to make, and there weren’t any other choices left. There was no such thing as college, nobody even talked about college, you had to be a millionaire to go to college, that’s the way we looked at it. And what good would an education do you back then, if you had street sense? With street sense, you could make money, and you’d see these guys that you looked up to and they always had big wads of money on them, nice cars, stuff like that.

You wrote your book 3 years ago–how did you feel about the reception, and reactions?

“I felt good I got good reactions, good review on the book, I felt great about it. I would’ve loved to put more in there, but there’s only so much you can put in, more about my life. But I guess we got the point across. Seemed like I got a lot of people enjoyed it. And I got people I knew who said ‘you shoulda said this, you shoulda said that,’ well, that’s life, you just can’t please anybody.

Beyond pleasing anyone else, do you feel there’s more you want to talk about, more you want to say?

“See, writing a book and doing a speech are two different things. I couldn’t basically go up there and talk to these people about my whole life, because I don’t have enough time. As far as anything else I want to say, I wouldn’t say it unless I went and did a book again, And I would have to go back through my whole life and pull things out. And it’s a pretty hard process, let me tell ya.

The "Hole In The Wall Gang" under arrest. Cullotta is at far right.

I bet—I was reading something about the number of incidents you’ve been involved in, and the thing that struck me is how do you even remember doing that many?

“I understand what you’re saying and I get that question to me a lot of times. And I just sit back alone and I talk into the recorder and things start coming back to me. You know, every robbery you go on, 90% of them are exciting, they’re a challenge, so they stay with you. Some are more exciting than others. So you go from one to the other, and try to remember what other one you forgot, and that comes up, it might be a dud. I still couldn’t put half of them things in the book it would be totally impossible I’d be talking for a year! Cause I did a lot of robberies. Some of them were exciting and there were some duds. But the majority were exciting.

Is that part of the appeal of that life?

“No, the glamor. People sort of look up to you. Money is the root of all evil, let’s say it like it is. You got money, you got friends, you got no money, you got no friends. You got money, you got people following you all around the place. If you’re a bum, nobody wants to be around you. You can see that with street people, nobody wants to be around them. You got a guy who’s a CEO, everybody wants to be around him. So it’s a lot of glamor. It’s power. You get off on it. Everybody does.

Speaking of glamor, let’s talk about Vegas in the old days—any favorite memories?

“Every day over there was a nice day. Even the days I got followed by the cops. Small town. I was never bored there. That’s a town you could get bored in, if you live there. You could get bored very easily over there, and wind up gambling. Even if you’re not a gambler. I enjoyed every day over there, it was nice.

You didn’t gamble?

“I did gamble but I had other things to do. I didn’t have that much idle time where I could gamble every day. But I did gamble. I’m like everybody else, I went out there and I gambled. And I won a lot. Yeah,oh yeah. And I had a lot of fun. Cause I played craps.

Did you know what casinos were better to play in than others?

“No, I would try to stay away from the casinos that we were connected to, the outfit, you know, that we had our hands in, for the simple reason that we didn’t want to take money away from our own people, so I tried to go to other ones, and didn’t put no heat on them. Cause the first thing they see, they see a guy like me in the Stardust winning money? Oh, he’s go that set up with the casino, you automatically put heat on your people’s casinos. So I went to other ones.

Speaking of the Stardust, did you have any reaction when Frank Rosenthal passed?

“Ah, he lived a good life, I had no bad feelings against the guy. He had a great life. Frank lived his life the way he wanted to, he was a very clever man. He was used very well, he made a lot of money for the organization that I was involved in. He had a lot on the ball when it came to gambling. It was a job to him, he made it his business to make sure he knew everything about who was sick, who had a broken toe, who had a cold, these althletes. He was a smart operator in that and we used him–the Organization. Frank wasn’t really somebody that you would sit down and talk about every robbery you did with, he was on a different level, you would say.

You owned a pizza place in Vegas.

“Yeah, it was called the Upper Crust. It was on Flamingo and Maryland Parkway. Me and Leo Gardino, my partner, we made about 4-5 scores and we put the restaurant up with the money from the robberies. We were going to manage it, cook, be hands on. We started out doing good, and then as soon as the cops found out we were in this business they started harassing people going in there, like casino bosses who were scared they’d lose their gaming permits if they came in my place. We had some movie stars that used to come in there—Wayne Newton was in there 3-4 times. From my understanding, they pulled him over in the parking lot one time and said ‘Do you know the kind of restaurant you’re going in to?’ And he said ‘Yeah, a good Italian restaurant.’ I know he was in there, we set up the whole restaurant for him, closed the place for him a couple times. Robert Conrad, Skip Minetti [sic], the guy who was Stallone’s brother in Rocky, a lot of beautiful showgirls from the Stardust and places. But they started putting a lot of heat on [customers].

Pizza is a hotly debated issue in Vegas these days—how was your pie?

“We had great pizza. It’s all about the dough, the water, how you get that stuff to rise. We had a good recipe, where the crust didn’t droop over when you pulled out a slice. I didn’t invent it, but, I knew they had a stuffed pizza in Chicago, and I introduced stuffed pizza to Vegas, and it went over good! But when the cops started putting the heat on everybody, I had to start going back on the road [doing robberies]. I had to pay everybody!

Do you miss having a restaurant?

“I couldn’t get in that business now, it’s a lot of headaches. You end up being a prostitute to your place, you’ve got to be there. You end up working every shift for everybody, you have to be a waiter, a delivery man, a pizza maker. But I do miss it, You never get that out of your system.

How did your involvement affect the movie about those times, Casino?

“The [Spilotro] murder. For one thing, I told Martin Scorsese ‘this is not the way it was done. I know they wouldn’t do it in the cornfield, they’re not going to walk somebody in to a cornfield because they’re going to have a meeting there. They’re not stupid. They’re going to do it in somebody’s basement, probably use ball bats on them. If they found no skin or leather from gloves, they probably used some kind of weapon. And it would have to be several guys. His brother was a karate guy. They did use the ball bat in one scene. But that was Marty, it had to be theatrical. But I said when they put him in the grave, they dug the grave square like it was a in a cemetery. I said, they don’t have the equipment to do that! They just dig a hole and throw him in there. So they had to do it all over again.

So what’s the story with Harry Reid? I’ve heard that Reid was in bed with you guys, and also that you had a contract out on him. What’s the truth?

“Nah, he wasn’t involved with us [laughs]. As far as us trying to plant a bomb on his car, because he said he fought the syndicate, that’s bullshit. It wouldn’t have been on the car his family drove, it would have been his personal car. We’re not out to kill wives and kids, we do our homework. I know he wasn’t involved with us.

And what about Oscar Goodman, have you guys settled your differences?

“Ah, we don’t get along. Goodman was my attorney, an adviser on my case. He liked Tony [Spilotoro] a real lot, and I hurt a lot of people when I rolled [turned ‘State’s Evidence'], a lot of people that liked me and thought a lot about me. Goodman, I guess he’s a great mayor, he does a lot for the city. As a lawyer, I don’t have too much confidence in him.

So where does that put you in regard to his pet project, the  Mob museum?

“I have no problem with that, he’s got his hands out of that. I’m going to have a big part in that museum.

What kind of experience do you want people to get out of the museum?

“It’s just like any other mob museum, you see Bonnie and Clyde, all of that stuff. I’m not the curator of the museum, but they were quite interested in my story and Tony’s story, Because I’m a part of the history of Las Vegas. I’m actually the only guy left. So they needed that, and I gave them all I could. There’s no money in it—99% of the stuff I do here, there’s no money in it. But what’s the difference? I’m making money, I got a good life.

What else do you do with your time?

“I’m a busy guy. I’m a businessman. I can’t really get into what I do with you. That’s my personal life.

So you still lead a somewhat protected life?

“I’m always going to lead a protective life. I was doing that when I was crooked. So this is the life I know how to live, I know how to watch my back.

How do you balance that with doing these public appearances?

“I just keep my eyes open, I look around. I look at it like this, if somebody comes after me, and they get me, that was my time to go. Surely if I see somebody make a move towards me, I’m gonna be on them, or I have people around me. I have people watching my back on these deals.

Do you have any reflection on why you’re the last one standing? Is it just luck, or the choices you’ve made?

“We all have a purpose in life. A lot of us don’t know what it is. We sit there and try to figure out what the purpose is… I actually believe this is my purpose. I get so many calls…I get in front of businessmen and talk. So this must be my purpose.

Do you think of this as redeeming your past in some way?

“I don’t know, I guess you could say it’s redeeming. I would just look at it as, this is my purpose.

Are you a religious man? A spiritual man?

“Ah, I believe in God. I don’t go to church, I don’t believe in going into a building and praying with a bunch of people. I don’t believe in confession to a priest, I believe you should have confession with yourself.

A lot of people say Vegas was better back in the old days when the Organization was running things. You’ve spent some time in Vegas recently, how do you feel?

“I think it was a warmer place back then, more social. It wasn’t a meatpacking place that only wanted your money. Or kids all over the place. Now it’s starting to come back, they’re getting rid of that Disneyland effect. It’s a nice place now, I wouldn’t talk anyone out of going there, I go there, I like it there. But I don’t think it’s ever going back to the way it used to be, and I think the way it used to be was nicer.

Back to food, you have any favorite restaurants in Vegas now?

“Believe it or not, I still go to the Peppermill. I love that place, I used to hang in the back all the time. Because I liked that place, I told Scorsese and he shot there with Sharon Stone. They got good food there! They got good food in a lot of restaurants in Vegas.

Write me up good, don’t talk bad about me. I’ll see it personally! I’m just messing with you…

##

Here’s the version on the Las Vegas Sun website…

Chef Brian's Comfort Truck

My intermittent journey through the LA food truck universe continued this week, first at an unexpected run-in with Chef Brian Hill’s Comfort Truck on the west side, then a dive-in to the truck fest that was the Silver Lake Jubillee. Twitter is the way to keep track of these trucks, so I’ve included twitter addresses where possible…

Having private chef’d for Mary J Blige, Eddie Murphy and Mariah Carey, Brian Hill has more pedigree than most truck chefs, and judging by his moist, juicy fried-to-order chicken, he understands that ingredient quality matters as much as technique (though he’s no slouch there either–he claims to marinate his wings for 24 hours).

One each of Chef Brian's Golden Fried Chicken and Jerk Beef Sliders.

I savored every bite of the Golden Fried slider (left), with a nice aioli mayo and jalapeno. But his tasty jerk beef was overcooked (I know it’s tricky to time sliders, but if it’s all you do…come on now) tho tasty regardless with cheese and grilled pineapple. Still I couldn’t help wishing he had a slightly broader menu than basically variations on two proteins–chicken breast (no dark meat, even?) and ground beef–and portions felt slightly skimpy for the price. There’s some nice looking corn and bean relish too, but I think Brian could maybe try his hand at a couple more ‘tings. Pork? Duck? Goat? Go for it. twitter: @Comforttruck

Silver Lake Jubilee was a smartly-produced alternative to the bloated thing that the annual Sunset Junction festival has become, with indie/local bands on two stages, a bunch of retail and charity booths that seemed actually relevant to the festival-attendees, and even some indie hillbillies playing music for square dancers, that I confess I can’t quite endorse. Mostly because the English term “naff” kept ringing in my ears. And mainly, the Jubilee sported something like 3 dozen food trucks.

Calbi Truck

Calbi truck (@CalbiBBQ) seems like a pretty obvious @KojiBBQ rip-off, with its Korean-inspired tacos and whatnot. That doesn’t mean it’s a bad rip-off. But I wasn’t going to waste calories finding out…

Canter’s is one of many bricks-n-mortar LA institutions that’s joined in the Truck wave (Border Grill and Mrs. Beasley’s are others, and there was a sadly lonesome Fatburger truck at the Jubilee too).

Canter's Deli truck...matzoh balls on wheels

I understand the reasoning behind wanting a piece of this action, but I can’t say I see the point; firstly, Canter’s has been around forever and as one of LA’s few 24-hour restaurants, is nothing if not accessible. Secondly, matzoh ball soup from a truck sounds like a novel idea, but how practical is it? Thirdly, to be honest, I’d be a lot more excited if Langer’s or Brent’s had a truck. They’re a bit harder to get to, and a bit more of a destination… (and while we’re on that notion…how about Phillippe’s, Porto’s, Din Tai Fung…?)

Some of the other trucks included… @Crepenaround (French crepes)

Tastymeat!

@Tastymeat (Greek wraps) …  @derbsgourmet …  @louks

Nana Queen’s Puddin’ and Wings (@nanaqueens)

@Frysmith, @Vesuvio, @UncleLaos…

Not all of them are necessarily inspired, in a culinary sense. Several (who shall remain nameless) were just twists on the basic 50’s-nostalgia burger-n-fries thing, with cute curb servers to match. I have no problem with cute servers, but it doesn’t really seem to be the point.

Crepe-n-Around truck

Frysmith's popular menu

Puddin?

But only one truck among all had a significant line–I mean, a huge line, more than 2 dozen deep–that dwarfed the others. That was @Coolhaus , the gourmet small batch ice cream truck (which inhabits what seems to be a converted mail truck, not the typical Catering Truck operation).

As usual, I wondered what could be so freakin’ good to deserve waiting for more than 20 minutes. But when I mentioned this out loud to a friend (who’s actually a restaranteur himself), he said “Have you tried it? It’s worth it.”). With special flavors like Foie Gras (not to mention chocolate chipotle, blood orange, brown butter with candied bacon), I was undoubtedly intrigued…will have to hunt it down soon.

World Fare double decker truck

I was most impressed, though, by World Fare–first, because it occupies what appears to be a converted British double decker bus, rather than typical Roach Coach, and the upper deck has been converted to a dining patio. Brilliant. Secondly, their food includes South African-inspired “bunny chow,” which is a slider alternate that’s something like a brioche hollowed-out (nice to have an alternative to the typical Hawaiian Sweet Roll buns) and filled with short ribs, BBQ pork, chicken curry or veggie chili. They also have Piedmontese burgers and sides like truffle mac n cheese balls. But there were too many things I wanted to try and couldn’t decide…so ultimately I landed with…

Viz Vizzi

@VizziTruck , sporting a more sophisticated than cutesy look, including flatscreen video monitors, lots of polished nickel plating, and a menu featuring butternut squash soup, some great looking salads, hormone-free Jidori chicken, chickpea and balsalmic BBQ wagyu sliders and more. The Jidori chicken sliders were cooked thru dark chicken, disappointingly bland without the chimmichurri hot sauce. But the chickpea sliders, oh the chickpea sliders! Three to a $7 order, they were a bit mushy–kind of sloppy joe consistency–spicy but soothing thanks to the creme fraiche on top, and altogether satisfying. Both slider orders came on a bed of pimento-spiced yakima salt popcorn (the chickpea ones also had chunks of dates, which offered a nice balance), in a smart but recyclable take-out box. Vizzi’s chef David Fune clearly hits two of the big ‘C’s–creative, and caring. They’re also highly sustainably-minded. Keep an eye on this one.

Vizzi's Chick pea sliders, spiced popcorn and dates. No? Yes.

If you want to obsess, check out www.findlafoodtrucks.com

You know things are changing when French wines have to fight for shelf space in the US. Click here for my Escape Hatch report on a recent Los Angeles tasting.

Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnaire, Joël Robuchon

I’m happy to say this is the third year I’ve attended, and each time has yielded new treasured experiences, though some imperfect aspects of the event also persist. One thing both wonderous and frustrating: the number of activities and meals taking place over roughly 72 hours make it impossible for one person to attend all (regardless of cost), and many unannounced elements make it difficult to know what will be truly special until it’s already in motion. Readers interested in digesting the entire weekend will have to piece together different reports…including some of my favorites:

Eating Las Vegas … ABC7 Chicago’s Steve Dolinsky …

Average Betty and Las Vegas Weekly .

The festival began as the four aforementioned musketeers gathered for a photo op mid-afternoon May 6, with downtown Las Vegas Mayor Goodman (the Supervisors of Town of Paradise, where

Gagnaire and Jean-Phillippe Maury chat in the background, Ducasse and Savoy in the foreground, Jean Joho on the right.

the Strip is actually located, typically remain off-camera) and Rao’s chef Carla Pellegrino (who makes good eye candy—surely she knows she’s not in their league) on the balcony of Ducasse’s mIX at theHOTEL.

They then joined some 40-odd other Vegas chefs (including just-awarded James Beard Foundation Best Chef, Southwest, Claude LeTohic) inside for a daunting group shot, before Ducasse kicked off the event officially with a traditional champagne sabering. I’ve seen this clipping off the cork of a champagne bottle with a ceremonial saber done many times before, and it usually takes several clumsy attempts. Mssr. Ducasse executed it with two short and one long stroke, as if he was buttering bread.

with Claude LeTohic

That’s one way you get to be Alain Ducasse.

(Oddly, this event was private for press and insiders only. Why, in a town that loves photo ops—during a week when the Miss USA ladies were popping up practically everywhere on the Strip—was this monumental event hidden not only from the public but even Uncork’d ticket buyers? Then again, if it weren’t private, I wouldn’t have had the unique experience of taking the elevator back down with Joel Robuchon instructing his staff en Français like de Gaulle going into battle.)

Afterward, Caesars Palace hosted four “Masters’ Series” dinners, all of which were repeats from previous years (perhaps because they sold well—and this year, all sold out). Though I didn’t attend any, having eaten at all four restaurants (Mesa Grill, Bradley Ogden, Guy Savoy and Rao’s) I can say with confidence which were probably best (hint: the most and least expensive). On the other hand this Boston couple apparently spent $722 to attend Bobby Flay’s Mesa meal. What can I tell them? That they could’ve spent the same amount and had probably two of the most memorable meals of their lives here? That if they had chosen to dine with Savoy, Robuchon or Ducasse, not only would those chefs have spent more time with them than apparently a passing handshake at the table, but also lavished them with extra course after extra course? But I digress.

Shibuya's robotayaki station

The first evening capped with a great, very reasonably priced event, “Shinkansen to Shibuya,” at which dozens of sakes—some very unusual and rare—were sampled alongside Shibuya’s great robatayaki (cooked live) and sushi. Being able to count the North American Sake Institute’s Tiffany Soto among my good friends, I’ve covered some ground in this territory. But even Shibuya soms Eric Swanson and Alysia Wrenn (who offered me personal guidance) admitted there were a few here they’d never tried. I attempted to entice Sage’s Shawn McClain and his Chef de Cuisine Richard Camarota to sip Brown Sugar Umeshu or Silent Stream, but the Chicagoans felt safer with the Sapporo. Serious sake snobs might have been put off by the house music and fur bikini’ed go-go girls. But hey, this is Vegas. Get used to it. (Look for my full tasting review here on EscapeHatchDallas.com .)

Puck signing cookbooks after his chat.

Friday morning began with a “Culinary Conversation” between Bon Appetit EIC Barbara Fairchild and Starchef Wolfgang Puck, (Bellagio’s Fontana lounge) at which WP entertainingly reminded us that he’s not just a worldwide brand but still a passionate chef, gourmand…and stand-up comedian. He admitted he isn’t able to experience many new chefs’ cooking—and is pretty strongly against the food truck thing—but is far from out of touch with trends.

“We don’t have any new ingredients,” said Wolf, “we just didn’t see them before.”

And on In N Out: “For what it is, it’s good, but I wouldn’t go there to eat it.”

"Lord, what fools these mortals be."

And before the audience Q&A: “I like questions about food and sex, and how they’re related…”

Afterward, as Puck hosted a lunch at CUT (others concurrent included Valentino, Pinot Brasserie and mIX), Joel Robuchon gave a cooking demonstration at his L’Atelier. While the event was staggering—imagine having one of the world’s most awarded chefs ever tell you how to cook your meat & veg (even other chefs would clamor for this)—L’Atelier’s open kitchen is ill-designed for such a situation, and most attendees had to watch the close action on video monitors, to augment the Chef’s fumbling translator. Still, $135 with a full lunch and autographed cookbook? Bargain.

CUT's Bruléed Baby Banana Cream Pie. Pretty, huh?

“Cooking is an act of delicacy,” Robuchon philosophized. “If you do something for a customer, do it like you would for your girlfriend or family.”

Overlapping these was an organic wine lecture by Bellagio Wine Director Jason Smith, MS, which I would’ve liked to have seen, followed hard by an Akira Back sushi class, cocktail class with mixologists Tony Abou-Ganim and Wynn’s Patricia Richards (loved this event last year), and a chocolate pairing with Smith and Bellagio Pastry Chef Jean-Marie Auboine.

With samplings from more than 50 restaurants around Caesars Palace’s Garden of the Gods pool deck, the Grand Tasting that evening offered an embarrassment of culinary riches—but the

Cat Cora looms large

emphasis might be on embarrassment there. For while it was a daunting, almost endless offering of food, wine and other treats (Vosges chocolate!), it was arguably a victim of its own success. A claimed 2300 attendees (not counting 75+ chefs and their staffs), showed the newly expanded Caesars pool deck to be a still-inadequate space, and nothing at the event was done to allay huge human traffic jams in front of some stations (particularly City Center row). Not even Chef Hubert Keller’s DJing skills could get people moving .

Considering how many disappointed voices I heard, here’s hoping it doesn’t become a victim of its own success (Why so much free space is devoted to tasting tables of rather ordinary wines, while too many restaurant booths are crammed in close quarters makes no sense).

Still, I was able to get in early enough to sample many remarkable bites, from Guy Savoy, Wynn Country Club, Dos Caminos, to off-Strip stars Vintner Grill and Rosemary’s, and the “sushi ghetto” of Roku, Marssa and Nobu poorly placed behind the Infiniti car display (Didn’t see them? Can’t say I blame you, there was almost no way of knowing they were there). Some highlights:

Mesa Grill scallops I actually saw Chef Bobby Flay plate himself!

•Bradley Ogden’s lamb sausage

•Mesa Grill’s scallops on the half shell

•Cat Cora’s lamb & tapenade burger (yes! One of the best lamb burgers I’ve ever had, really)

•Sirio’s raviolo with asparagus sauce

•Valentino’s home made pasta with rabbit meatballs–and gelato

•Switch’s wagyu tartare

•Lotus of Siam’s curry beef (only #5 hot, tho)

•Union’s tuna tartare “pizza”

•Silk Road’s ice cream push-up pops

Fish guru...card sharp?

Afterward came the annual celebrity/chef blackjack tournament outside at Encore, won once again (3^rd year in a row) by Wynn’s Paul Bartolotta. It’s not for me to question, but the next morning, Shawn McClain did grumble a bit about getting bad hands… (he was just KIDDING)

That was before the second Culinary Conversation, between chefs McClain, Pierre Gagnaire, Julian Serrano, Laurent Tourondel and Bon Appetit’s camera-ready editor Andrew Knowlton. Some of Andrew’s questions were good, some odd (“Why aren’t there more female chefs?” Hm, maybe you should have invited one!) but he never quite started the conversation promised. Certainly this discussion could have gone much longer.

Still, we discovered Serrano originally wanted to be a footballer, McClain grew up with a mom who “Was everything the ‘50s brought to cooking–vegetables in a can, lemon juice in a bottle,” and Gagnaire, in rough English, said “For me, this job was a mistake! Then I realized it was a fantastic way to meet people.” Serrano finds his inspiration just spending hours in farmers markets, while Gagnaire said all the knowledge in the world won’t make you a good chef “if you don’t have the sensibility.”

Serrano disabused the notion that getting fresh ingredients in a desert town was any challenge. Thanks to the proximity of California, “You order produce 10 at night, and it’s here at 10 in the morning, same as any other city.”

Of coming to Las Vegas, said McClain: “To be showcased in a city that has so much talent concentrated was

Walzog's sexy tartare

impossible to resist.” And for his fellow new CityCenter star Gagnaire, “To be in Las Vegas for me is incredible. Today I find Vegas more exotic than Tokyo.”

Saturday continued with the “Ultimate All-Star” Interactive Luncheon, a great event where Wynn/Encore chefs show everyone how to cook a dish, and one person from each table actually cooks it with the help of a sous chef. This one might have been a little anti-climatic from last year (at least for me—in ’09 I got to cook with Daniel Boulud, who then sat down at the table and ate my squab. Cleaned his plate, too!) but when talents like Bartolotta, Alex Stratta, David Walzog and Frederic Robert are in charge, you’re getting a treat.

Stratta shows you how.

And we did: steak tartare from Walzog, sweet pea risotto from Stratta, classic salt crust fish from Bartolotta, and a raspberry trifle (with sherbet and candy bars) from Robert. When we all chopped basil at the same time (including Vegas Channel 8’s Denise Valdez at the next table, and That 70s Show’s Laura Prepon nearby), and the Beethoven ballroom filled with its amazing earthy perfume, that was a Proustian moment. And Robert really ought to have an event of his own, focusing on the incredible breads his pastry shop creates unique for every Wynn/Encore venue. Think about it for next year, Uncork’d.

Rissotto perfecto.

(Walzog, by the way, wouldn’t give me a single hint about what’s in store for the space where DB Brasserie is in Wynn after Boulud leaves later this season and Walzog takes over. But I’m predicting something [American, fishy and “approchable” (read: Gastro-pubby). Even though I’d like to see a more adventuresome concept, say...a tribute to the Turkish Bosphorus. But I digress.)

Overlapping that event was an interesting seminar with winemaker Jim Clendenen (Au Bon Climat), reviewer Pierre Rovani, MS Smith and Bon Appetit’s Steve Olson about wine ratings at Bellagio, then a Payard pastry demonstration at Caesars which I’m sure was great (I’ve seen Payard do these twice—he’s fantastic).

Laura Prepon and David Walzog follow Bartolotta's orders.

Meanwhile at Mandalay Bay, Rick Moonen’s RM Seafood hosted a very cool demo collaboration between Moonen, Keller and Border Grill/Too Hot Tamales semi-legend Susan Feniger—three diverse talents you’d never expect to get on so well. With the temporary stage open to the casino, onlookers were free to gather and watch (and arguably get a closer view than you could inside). It’s a concept RM’s Top Chef Master should repeat—perhaps even with Rick’s kitchen dream team, Adam Sobel and Gerald Chin.

Feniger, Keller & Moonen ... One Night Only!

The big event that evening was a “Fashion Feast,” pairing the best chefs of Bellagio—Vegas’ first starchef-centered property—with fashions from the property’s high end shops. Even with food from Todd English, Michael Mina, Serrano and Le Cirque’s David Werly, it was one I was happy to miss. A property-promotional ballroom meal doesn’t really seem in the spirit of Bon Appetit, IMHO.

Palmer knows pig.

But one I’m glad I didn’t miss was the surprisingly intimate Charlie Parker/Alain Ducasse Mandalay Beach party, which was truly a marvel; first to see how each approached the task, then to see the chefs and their staffs interacting with the relatively intimate crowd, Moonen, and each other (much wine and Patron was poured to help).

Romano scoops!

Palmer roasted a pig, served fantastic grilled lobsters, bacon-wrapped monkfish medallions and softshell crabs. Ducasse served more elegant fish and delicate vegetable terrines. And lastly, Megan Romano scooped her own silky ice cream (black raspberry—yum).

With an entirely different flavor, the Joe Bastianich-hosted “Palazzo after hours” Rock and Roll pool party was also fun. Mario Batali’s partner joined a Zeppelin cover band (featuring Antrhax’s Scott Ian), while Batali Exec Chef & salumist Zach Allen manned the B&B salumi station, First Food brought sliders, and Lagasse Stadium had wings. Rene Lenger, Akira Back, Scott Linquist and Carla Pellegrino made the scene as well. Naturally, several nice wines were poured too (even a supple brachetto).

Ducasse talks shop.

Sunday morning, Robuchon and Aureole both hosted Mother’s Day brunches, but by then I was, as my friend John Curtas texted me, “restaurant’ed out.”

For foodists and restaurant hounds, an event like this also offers an opportunity to view the differences in approach between chefs, and their interest in interaction. It’s a fascinating thing to see four of the world’s most admired chefs: Ducasse, Savoy, Robuchon and Gagnaire in a room together, and it’s notable how much each of them gave of their time throughout the weekend—certainly in contrast to a Bobby Flay, who seemed to spend a lot of time in front of the cameras, though after two security men helped him through the crowd (?) at the Grand Tasting, I did witness him actually serving.

Contrast this with Steve Martarano—not known to give his Vegas outlet lavish attention—at his GT booth (rather than the press line) actually making fresh mozzerella himself. He even taught me how to do it. But hey, don’t get me wrong—Todd English, who helmed the Saturday dinner, apparently couldn’t turn up a day early for the GT, Emeril Lagasse, who has more restaurants in Vegas than any town outside of NoLa, was a no-show once more, and when was the last time Nobu Matsuhisa (who’s trained half the sushi-slingers here) made his presence known?

By the same token, it was almost bizarre to see how negligibly most of City Center’s new star chefs spots were involved. Yes, Gagnaire was ever present—but why didn’t his restaurant host a single event? (curiously, he had a private lunch for local press only just the day prior.) Sage’s Shawn McClain, Masa’s Masa, Silk Road’s Martin Heierling along with the chefs of Sirios. Union, Jean-Georges and American Fish manned booths at the GT but had almost no other involvement (exception: American Fish’s Michael Mina represented his Bellagio restaurant at the Fashion Gala). That’s inexplicable, and a loss for both attendees and City Center. There were a few other local talents—Ago’s Marco Porceddu, N9ne’s Barry Dakake, Nove’s Geno Bernardo, Raku’s Mitsuo Endo, maybe even Hussong’s Noe Alcala—who were notably absent, but that’s just one man’s opinion. Perhaps next year they’ll find a way to include them, and the incoming Cosmopolitan resort talent like David Myers.

More obvious is how uneven the celebrity presence has always been at this festival. Having interviewed dozens of A-List Hollywooders, I can tell you bigger names than Laura Prepon (no offense) would love to eat their way through a weekend like this—and for that matter, why didn’t more Vegas stars trot around (I only saw Jersey Boys’ Frankie Valli, Rick Faugno, and magician Nathan Burton. Heck, this might be the only Vegas event Holly Madison has missed in months)?

Vegas has always been a bit bipolar about community-building, but our culinary offerings are now, ironically, a more unique element of Vegas than it’s heritage, gaming. If we don’t nurture this community, and build it, it will wither. And that includes nurturing a local community of sophisticated, passionate restaurant-goers. To do that, Uncork’d really ought to consider opening up some of the “ancillary” events, at least making them inclusive to attendees of others ($50 to see Puck talk, accompanied by coffee and danish? $150 to watch the blackjack tourney?) or including other free events. Perhaps the book signings within the Grand Tasting could inhabit a separate weekend-long “pop-up” store?

A sweet finish: Romano's shortcake sandwich

But you gotta break some eggs to make an omelet, as they say, and Vegas Uncork’d remains a fantastically creative high end food fest that reflects the absolute best this Star Chef city offers. It just needs a little more time in the kitchen next year.

Follow me on twitter: @vegasstarchefs

Watch some cool Vegas Uncork’d video here

More from Las Vegas Weekly’s Sarah Feldberg:

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/blogs/the-playground/2010/may/09/one-very-tasty-traffic-jam/

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/blogs/the-playground/2010/may/10/uncorkd-notes-quotes-and-salt-crusted-fish/

My definition of a great present is something that you absolutely would love to have but would never get yourself. So when a close friend marked my birthday with a number of wrapped mint chocolate bars from Whole Foods (as well as a pint of Baskin-Robbins’ perfect Mint Chip ice cream), I couldn’t have been more pleased. Mint chocolate has always been one of my favorite flavor combinations, and these organic-sustainable-ethical bars have all intrigued. But I would never have thought to buy them all and taste test. Until now. Yay!

I didn’t necessarily approach the process scientifically, but I did take some time, breaking them all open and trying a bit of each, then leaving them for a few hours before returning and making my mind up.

The Lake Champlain Peppermint Crunch Dark Chocolate (54% Cocoa) didn’t thrill me at first, but definitely grew on me (“opened up,” as they say in wine parlance)—it had some of the creamiest mouth feel, and the peppermint bits were so small as to provide some “crunch” without detracting from the overall texture. The chocolate was nicely blended and didn’t have the unchecked floral-berry tartness that a lot of pure dark has.

Endangered Species All-Natural Dark Chocolate with Deep Forest Mint (72% Cocoa) is really not in danger at all. It was 100% ethically boring. All the flavor notes were subdued, and the texture was unremarkable. So much so that you’d wonder how they decided “this is it” when they came up with the recipe.

I’m thrilled that the Q Bel all natural dark chocolate mint wafer bars were made as a tribute to the owner’s wife (according to the wrapper). But frankly, I hope Isabel is more inspiring than the product.

I had the highest hopes for Theo organic fair trade mint dark chocolate (70% cacao), not only because the wrapper was tasteful, and it actually had the USDA Organic seal, but because I’d heard good things about Theo. Regrettably, it was the most disappointing—a crumbly texture, and distinctly medicinal flavor, with strong notes of sour cherries and oil of peppermint utterly overwhelming any chocolate flavor. Yecch.

Equal Exchange organic and fairly traded mint chocolate with a delicate crunch (jeez, I really think that’s the whole name!) 67% cacao: is also nice, a bit less sweet and less minty, somewhat smooth with only a moderate acid afternote. Quite subtle and satisfying–ultimately, my favorite—and I felt better about myself just for consuming it!

Is it worth noting that all of these bars—except the wafers–had an estimable amount of fiber (3 to 5 grams per serving)? How many candies can boast that?

I can’t say covering the 2010 Wine and Spirits Wholesalers Association convention is the toughest assignment I’ve ever had, but drinking almost non-stop for 48 hours is…well…click on the cocktail contest photo above for the full blog in EscapeHatchDallas. I can’t remember the details anymore.

]]> http://ecgladstone.com/2010/04/are-you-drinking-what-im-drinking/feed/ 0 http://ecgladstone.com/2010/04/moby-chews-the-fat/ http://ecgladstone.com/2010/04/moby-chews-the-fat/#comments Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:56:19 +0000 admin http://ecgladstone.com/?p=512

Moby and Miyun Park at the Skirball Center

I’m not normally a fan of being preached to, but last week (3/23/10) a mutual friend invited me to go see Moby (Electronica “legend” & DJ) talk about the new book GRISTLE: from Factory Farms to Food Safety (thinking twice about the meat we eat) he’d co-edited with Miyun Park, at the Skirball Cultural Center, West LA’s gorgeous Jewish institution.

I admit I walked into the auditorium feeling guilty already, after putting the cream of tortured cows into my coffee. I half expected Moby to appear like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang’s Childcatcher (you know, the Jack White lookalike?) twitching his nose and saying “I smell meat eaters.” Doubtful there were many of “us:” the hundreds-strong crowd skewed young and thin, even if not everyone was a pomo hippy type.

There were a few interesting characters though. A couple of guys in the crowd (largely belonging to the “converted” to whom Moby was preaching) wore Vegan Bodybuilding shirts—not a great advertisement, considering both were scarcely more muscular than I am. One creepy guy had his 8 year-old daughter (I’m assuming) on his lap and was massaging her back the whole time. Dude, seriously? Then there was the bearded man with the Moses staff who felt like telling the world every time he agreed with a point, or not.

With a book title like GRISTLE, I expected the long-time vocal vegan activist to speechify to his minions, with one fact and figure after another, about how the entire planet’s doom was tied to the fact that people eat meat.

To my delight, there was no real speechifying—even if Moby tacitly made that assertion nonetheless. “You look at the health plagues of the 20^th century,’ he said “and they’re all related to diet.” I wasn’t ready to entirely buy that. But with E. Coli outbreaks becoming almost commonplace, it wasn’t entirely dismissible, either.

“The issue is about reducing animal suffering,” said Miyun, who was perhaps a bit less adept at seducing a crowd. “In the two hours we’re going to be here, 2.5 million animals will be killed in the US.”

Okay, that is a number that should give anyone pause.

Moby won a lot of points by relating his personal journey (for lack of a less new-agey word). “When I was in high school, I had nothing but disdain for vegetarians,” he said, recalling days in a Connecticut hardcore punk band. “I’ve had so many militancies in my life. Where does it come from? My insecurity.” Moby admitted he’d personally gone to extremes in his political correctness–even “not wanting to take hot showers because I didn’t want to support the oil companies…it got so bad that I threatened to only talk to other vegans.”

Eventually, he says, he realized “Not everybody is born vegan [just as] not everybody is born with a cool record collection” (apparently he’s learned to accept his aunts and uncles who raise chickens—hey, at least it’s local).

“We have to resist the temptation to judge other people because they don’t meet our standard of purity.”

He also made the valid point that even vegans can still contribute to environmental degradation (especially if they’re eating foods from far away).

Moby’s thrust seemed to be that government be persuaded to remove subsidies to animal production for food, and that that would make the vegetarian option much more affordable by comparison (though he also admitted many “vegetarian” packaged foods are overpriced). He claims that he even asked Al Gore why the environmental impact of animal production wasn’t included in “An Inconvenient Truth,” and Gore responded that it was “too inconvenient of a truth.”

Fighting climate change and eating meat, Moby posited, was the same kind of contradiction as trying to cure cancer or heart disease while being a cigarette smoker.

The book’s collection of essays were only lightly touched upon. “Even if you don’t want to read it,” Moby quipped, “there’s fun little graphs.”

Moby made a point of going overtime to answer all of the people who lined up to ask questions; an impressive number of them stayed to wait in line and have the book signed, evidence that a “free” event is good business (FYI, Moby also pointed out all the book profits go to animal rights organizations).

“I’m just as passionate” as ever, Moby said “but I want to figure out a way to do it and not irritate my friends and family in the process.”

Dita Von Teese performing in her custom-designed champagne glass bath.

In honor of Dita Von Teese’s return to the Crazy Horse of Paris show at MGM Grand, Las Vegas, I thought I would post this interview I did with her last time around, talking about her PETA campaign, and how she would do her own Vegas show if she had a chance. Take a look… (click PETA ad to download PDF)

With Chef Geno Bernardo, who unfortunately for R-J readers does not cook at Olive Garden.

It’s a rite of nearly every publication to do both “Best of”s and Readers’ Polls, but few seem as equally anticipated and dreaded as the Review-Journal’s “Best of Las Vegas,” a readers/staff/celebrities selection, that never fails to engage yet enervate the community. Of course, as long as it’s talked about, it’s a success for the R-J (let me pause to note that I consider several staffers there friends and colleagues), which is probably why the two-decades-plus old poll’s enduring flaws are never cured, and possibly get worse.

No portion of the poll seems to get heads scratching so much as the “Food & Drink” section—restaurants, basically—whose categories are as random as the choices made. The R-J seems to choose genres as they suit them (or perhaps advertisers?), neither reflecting accurately the full breadth of eateries in the valley (and virtually ignoring the “drink” in “Eat & Drink”) nor bothering about how many overlaps there are in the ones they chose (both “Best New Restaurants” choices this year belong in other categories). Why the R-J staff and readers both tend to shun the Strip like a quarantine zone baffles me. It’s the center of the city. Nine out of ten times, casino resorts offer the best eating in town. And no, it is not all priced to gouge tourists.

I “get” that the readers of the R-J are not the same as restaurant critics, and I also get that there’s a great deal of food in the affordable range worthy of praise. What I don’t get is why R-J readers—and staff members, who are presumably more informed—continue to make uninspired or even embarrassing choices at least 50% of the time. I don’t buy the “what ordinary folks like” theory: go on yelp.com and you’ll see all kinds of intelligent, informed reviews by “normal” people about all kinds of eateries in town. (Let me add an extra thumbs-down to the design of the Best Of Eat & Drink page, which makes you click and click back on every category. Is the R-J trying to snub the Sun’s award winning design by being the worst designed website possible?)

Every year, those in the know groan over the choices but rarely put any reactions in print. This year, I decided enough was enough. I’m posting on my personal site so as to be clear that this is my position, and mine only. Feel free to RT, share, Digg, etc..

Best Bakery

Trolley du Pain at Guy Savoy

I can’t fault the choice of Freed’s, a Vegas stalwart responsible for great whimsical creations, but when it comes to savory breads, both Wynn’s general baker, and the baker for Guy Savoy’s Trolley du Pain make many remarkable creations (unfortunately neither available at retail).

Best Bar Food

I confess I haven’t sampled the myriad chicken wing creations of many Vegas Pubs, so I might have to beg off this one. But the happy hour menu at Society in Wynn holds many pleasant surprises, and the seared tuna burger at Brasserie Puck in Crystals, City Center is also remarkable for the price, with perfect fries. That’s right, I used the word “perfect.”

Best Deli

Tuna Burger at Brasserie Puck...it's on a bar. Does that make it "bar food?"

I have been warned away from more delis in Vegas than I’ve tried, but Earl of Sandwich in Planet Hollywood makes fine toasted sandwiches—and Enoteca San Marco makes their own deli meats on premises, so how much better can it get than that?

Best Desserts

The choice of Cheesecake Factory here just makes me realize how little most Las Vegans get to sample what their city has to offer. There are several award-winning pastry chefs making miracles on the Strip. Those at Sage, Guy Savoy, American Fish and Aureole are just a few that come to mind right now. M Resort’s buffet desserts are also fantastic, to a one. And again, the dessert trolley at Guy Savoy? It isn’t better in heaven, I’m sure of it.

Best Doughnuts

Nutella filled donuts at Stratta, Wynn. Hate me later.

Dunkin Donuts? Winchell’s?? WTF? The category isn’t “biggest” donuts. At least please pick Ronald’s, a Vegas legend that still holds its own with creative (and vegan) choices. Though really the best donuts in town are the the fresh-made nutella-filled ones at Stratta in the Wynn. Go try them and tell me I’m wrong.

Best Family Restaurant

This is a tricky category—not all restaurants ideal for families necessarily bill themselves as such, Having said that, R-J’s staff pick Red Robin is actually a solid choice, but in reality, any of the Station casino’s buffets, Seasons at Silverton Lodge or the buffet at Main Street Station are better family pleasers (especially if they let the under-six kids in free)

Best French Restaurant

I was scared to even peek at the choices here. There are no shortage of restaurants attemping fine French food in Vegas, though few are inspired. It’s been a while since I’ve been to Marche Bacchus, and I’m happy for them getting the attention, but really, in a town where Guy Savoy, Joel Robuchon, and Pierre Gagnaire are plying their trades, be serious. On a more traditional level, Mon Ami Gabi and Bouchon both deliver solidly

Best Gourmet Restaurant

Far too vague a category. I abstain.

Best Hamburgers

The five dollar Binion's Snack Bar burger. Which you can't buy at In N Out. (courtesy Binion's)

This category drives me crazy. I spent more time than I’d want to admit last year trying burgers around Vegas. I know what I’m talking about. There are at least a dozen burgers served in town that are far, far, far better than In N Out at its very best (see my Top Ten Burgers here), but I will spare the snootiness. Just go get a fresh-ground five dollar burger at the snack bar in Binion’s. Eat it next to an In N Out. What are you afraid of?

Best Hot Dogs

Well there’s nothing wrong with a Costco hot dog, especially for the price, and toppings aside, I haven’t found anything in town that necessarily beats them. Although really, considering this consistent winner just makes food to feed its shoppers, is this category necessary?

Best Ice Cream

Do we have to reserve choices to only ice cream, by technical definition, or are we allowed to include fro-yo, gelato, custard, and other frozen options in town? Because frankly, I couldn’t begin to list the things that beat Cold Stone.

Best Indian Restaurant

Haven’t sampled enough Indian in Vegas to comment, but I have had a very fine lamb shank curry with all the proper sides at MOZen in Mandarin Oriental.

Best Italian Restaurant

An even bigger category in Vegas than French—and one with a significant tradition. So that’s why folks chose Olive Garden? Sigh. I could get angry, but really, what I feel is closer to pity. Please—PLEASE—go to the Palms, get on an elevator, and eat at Nove Italiano. It’s really not that expensive. If not there, the Grill at Valentino, Fiamma at MGM, Lupo in Mandalay Bay or Stratta in the Wynn. Olive Garden doesn’t love you. Olive Garden doesn’t need you. They do. (see my Top Ten Italian)

Best Japanese Restaurant

Yellowtail sashimi around warm foie gras at Sushi Roku

Another massive category, especially when you include sushi, robata, and everything else. But certainly neither R-J’s staff pick Raku or celebrity pick Ichiza can be slighted. In a more Americanized vein, I’ve also had a very good meal at Sushi Roku recently.

Best Meal for Less Than $10

Considering the tradition of amazing Graveyard Specials in Vegas, one would have to choose one of those, right? Oops, guess that would require some thinking. The Flamingo’s Burger Joint gives you a burger and fries for ONE DOLLAR after midnight. It’s not the best burger in town (even at midnight) but guess what: It’s just as good as In N Out! Buy ten of them for your friends, big spender.

Best Mexican Restaurant

Elote at Hussong's Taqueria

So… we’re supposed to distinguish this from taqueria, I imagine (see below)? Unfortunately, that’s difficult in Vegas, but Dos Caminos and Diego are solid choices—and Hussong’s delivers on many levels. Get the elote. (also see my Notes on eating Mexican)

Best Microbrewery

Not a lot of choices here, but along with the R-J staff, I’ve been impressed with the quality of several brews by Chicago Brewing Company. Color me shocked that I’m agreeing with them in more than one category.

Best Middle Eastern Restaurant

I’ve yet to try an Middle Eastern in Vegas that’s worth remarking upon. Not saying there isn’t any that’s good, just saying I haven’t found anything. I’ll defer to my favorite Greek, John Curtas.

Best Barbeque

Another category I confess might deserve more of my attention (there’s a few funky places on my to-do list), but for the moment, I’ve never been disappointed by Memphis Champs. And the pulled pork sandwich at Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill is one of the best I’ve ever had—even in Memphis proper.

Best Other Ethnic Restaurant

I don’t really know where to go with this category… how does someone compare Cuban to Cajun or whatever “Ethnic” is supposed to include or exclude? So I’m going to go with the Hawaiian specialties at the Californian Hotel café. Just Because.

Best Pizza

Thankfully the customers at Metro Pizza aren't insulted by offerings like the mushroom and truffle Bosco pizza at Stratta.

A pyrrhic victory at best—I’m sorry to tell everyone, as a East Coaster, that even the best Vegas pizza is only passable by serious standards. But those best pizzas are found at the obvious choices—Settebello, Grimaldi’s, Anthony’s (R-J’s staff pick) all have their strengths—as well as Stratta at Wynn and Grotto at Golden Nugget. Particularly memorable: the Paul & Young Ron at Anthony’s, the Bosco at Stratta.

Best Place for a Power Lunch

By my definition, a Power Lunch spot is a place where atmosphere and service dominate over food itself, which shouldn’t be too distracting. With that in mind, I can’t think of any place better than Country Club at Wynn, Verandah at Four Seasons or Olives at Bellagio. Unless it’s a catered meal by Wolfgang Puck in Steve Wynn’s villa (unlikely, I know).

Best Place for Breakfast

Maybe I should’ve saved that last snarky answer for this one… the best breakfast I’ve had in Vegas was at Tableau in Wynn when Mark LoRusso was still running it. Nowadays? It’s probably Verandah.

Best Seafood Restaurant

The restaurant is very specific—all Italian pesci–but how can you compete with the one-of-a-kind Bartolotta in this regard? Or all-sustainable RM Seafood? Or so many places in Chinatown? I guess you do that by putting coupons in the newspaper, right Red Lobster?

Best Thai Restaurant

The Archi’s vs. Lotus death match must soldier on, but without slighting either, I personally don’t get the obsession with heat over ingredient quality in this cuisine… Lemongrass in Aria certainly does some nice dishes.

Best Coffee/Cappuccino

No strong opinion here—I think really excellent coffee is more and more rare actually—but I have had very fine coffee at Verandah in Four Seasons, and have a soft spot for Coffee Bean on Maryland Parkway.

Best Steakhouse

Gosh, this Craftsteak dry aged ribeye couldn't possibly compare to a filet at Outback, could it? (courtesy MGM/Mirage)

My only reaction to Outback winning the Reader’s pick this year is to breathe a sigh of relief that the serviceable but uninspiring Circus Circus did not win a 21^st year. For a chain, I’ll admit Outback is edible, if only. I also researched this category extensively within the last year (see my Top Ten!)—there are many fine choices, to which I would add most recently Jean-Georges in Aria. On a more reasonable level, you’ll get a solid slab at Binion’s Ranch, the Carmel Room at Rampart, or The Flame in El Cortez.

Best Sub Sandwich

Whatever.

Best Tacos

I don’t even want to see what was chosen, but the most authentic, savory and satisfying tacos I have had recently in town are actually at Hussong’s in Mandalay Place. Really. Los Antojos obviously has some satisfying options as well (particularly the chicken mole).

Los Antojos' mole tacos

Best Asian Restaurant

Would this be best Asian, except for Chinese, Thai and Japanese? Nice categorization, editors. Anyway, can’t argue much with Wazuzu, the R-J staff choice, since it’s literally an “Asian” i.e. fiercely pan-Asian restaurant, with a strong chef at the helm.

Best Soul Food Restaurant

Speaking of categories, why this gets one and Wine Bar, or Tapas, or many other growing categories do not, is beyond explanation.

Best Chinese Restaurant

…that you didn’t vote for in the “Asian” category, that is. I doubt even the owner of P.F. Chang’s would say he serves the best Chinese food in Las Vegas. But he’ll take your money.

Best Diner/Coffee Shop

Since we’ve already been asked to vote on best breakfast, best burger, best meal under $10, best coffee…what role does this category serve? I don’t know many places in Vegas that would even classify in my concept of a traditional Diner/Coffee Shop (besides the fact that there’s a decent one in every single casino, but so what?). So I’m going to be “that guy” and pick the Vegas-adjacent Peggy Sue’s in Yermo, CA. Hey, they’ve got a bobble head of Oscar Goodman over the pie case. And some damfine fried chicken.

Best Restaurant With a View

This would have been a different choice before Top of the World significantly remade their menu in December, but they are now the obvious pick weighing the view and food equally. Mix, Voodoo Steak, Sushi Roku, Eiffel Tower, Veloce Cibo, Binion’s Ranch Steakhouse and Panevino are also all solid food-and-view selections.

Best New Restaurant (Opened in 2009)

Goat Cheese Gnocchi at Sage

It’s Sage. Period. No, you’re wrong. It’s Sage (opened December 16, 2009)

DONE

Some favorite Las Vegas residents and visitors–Wolfgang Puck, Holly Madison, Sugar Shane Mosley, and Ivanka Trump–share their Vegas loves (click above to download full PDF)

Mark Andelbradt, Paul Bartolotta, Geno Bernardo, Osamu Fujita, Martin Heierling, Jean Joho, Emeril Lagasse, Scott Linquist, Shawn McClain, Michael Mina, Rick Moonen, Bradley Ogden, François Payard, Luciano Pellegrini, Guy Savoy, Kerry Simon, Alex Stratta, Masa Takayama, Charlie Trotter, Jean-Georges Vongerichten

Actors, Directors and Personalities

Ben Affleck, Jessica Alba, Alison Anders, Greg Araki, Samaire Armstrong (Entourage, Dirty Sexy Money), David Arquette, Desmond Askew, John August (Go, Charlie’s Angels)

Alec Baldwin, Elizabeth Banks, Roseanne Barr, Kristin Bell (Heroes, Veronica Mars), Lorraine Bracco, Wayne Brady, Michelle Borth (HBO’s Tell Me You Love Me), Steve Buscemi

Kelly Carlson (Nip/Tuck), Kristin Chenoweth (The West Wing), Steve Coogan (24 Hr Party People, Alan Partridge), David Cronenberg, Russell Crowe, Jon Cryer

Matt Damon, Jonathan Demme, Ted Demme, Cameron Diaz, Leonardo DiCaprio, Taye Diggs, Robert Downey Jr., David Duchovny, Kirsten Dunst

Jon Favreau, Jerry Ferrara (Entourage), William Fichtner (Prison Break, Black Hawk Down), Clare Forlani, Patrick Fugit (Almost Famous, Wristcutters), Edward Furlong (Terminator 2, American History X)

Beau Garrett (Turistas, Fantastic Four), Janeane Garofolo, Rebecca Gayheart, Larry Gordon, Maggie Grace (Lost), Greg Grunberg (Felicity)

Anthony Michael Hall (Breakfast Club, The Dead Zone), Eddie Izzard, Hugh Jackman, Scarlett Johansson, Angelina Jolie, Spike Jonze, Tommy Lee Jones, Mike Judge

Kim Kardashian, Stacey Keach, Arielle Kebbel (American Pie Band Camp), Ben Kingsley, Neil LaBute, Diane Lane, Heath Ledger, Tea Leoni, Doug Liman, Eva Longoria, Baz Luhrman, Robert Luketic

Ewan MacGregor, William H. Macy, Romany Malco (Weeds), AnnaLynne McCord (90210), Eric McCormack (Will & Grace), Jay Mohr (Action, The Ghost Whisperer), Sophie Monk, Mandy Moore, Bill Murray, Sandra Oh (Grey’s Anatomy)

Anna Paquin, Audrina Patridge, Bill Paxton, Jesse Peretz, Todd Phillips, Matt Pinfield (MTV, VH-1), Joe Piscopo, Whitney Port, Jaime Pressly

Sam Raimi (Spiderman), Keanu Reeves, Brad Renfro, Ryan Reynolds, Emmy Rossum (Phantom), Geoffrey Rush

William Shatner, Vinessa Shaw (Eyes Wide Shut, 3:10 To Yuma), Ally Sheedy, Jamie-Lynn Sigler (The Sopranos), Kevin Smith, Brittany Snow (Hairspray), Kevin Spacey, David Spade, Steven Spielberg, Sylvester Stallone, Julia Stiles, Ben Stiller, Domenique Swain (Lolita)

Noah Taylor (Shine, Pirates of the Carribean), Dita Von Teese, Charlize Theron, Christopher Titus, Stanley Tucci

Gabrielle Union, Amber Valetta, Gus Van Sant, Vince Vaughn, Natasha Wagner, Paul Walker, Patrick Warburton, Estella Warren, John Waters, Olivia Wilde, Michelle Williams, Owen Wilson, Scott Wolf (Party of Five, Everwood), John Woo

David Zucker (Airplane!, Scary Movie 3/4)

Musical Artists and Producers

Atari Teenage Riot, Dan the Automator (Dr. Octagon/Gorillaz), Burt Bacharach, Beastie Boys*, Beck*, Natasha Bedingfield, Archie Bell, Tony Bennett, Jello Biafra, Bo Bice, Mary J. Blige, Boss Hog, Holly Brook, Bobby Byrd, Mariah Carey, Nick Cave,  Citizen Cope, George Clinton & P-Funk, Bootsy Collins, Julian Cope, John Doe, Greg Dulli (Afghan Whigs/Twilight Singers), the Dust Brothers, Hillary Duff

Earth Wind & Fire, Elastica, Perry Farrell, The Frogs, Greg Ginn, Girls Against Boys, Greyboy, Dave Grohl (Foo Fighters/Nirvana), Gwar, PJ Harvey, Richard Hell, Robyn Hitchcock, Holland, Dozier & Holland, Jamiroquai, Jawbox, the JBs, Wyclef Jean, Jesus Lizard*

Kool Keith, DJ Keoki, KMFDM, Gladys Knight, Korn, Ben Lee, La Ley, Lords of Acid, John Lydon (Sex Pistols/PiL), Ian MacLagan (Small Faces/the Faces), Mazzy Star, Meat Beat Manifesto*, Mighty Mighty Bosstones, Ministry, Monster Magnet, Scotty Moore (Elvis’ guitarist), Mudhoney, Wayne Newton, Nickelback

Ohio Players, Yoko Ono, Ozomatli, Prince Paul, Pavement, Pigface, Portishead, Phil Ramone, Red Hot Chili Peppers*, Royal Trux, Gil Scott-Heron, Adrian Sherwood, Mike Shinoda (Linkin Park/Fort Minor)

Slash, Smashing Pumpkins*, The Smithereens, Sonic Youth, Soul Asylum, Soul Coughing, Jon Spencer (Pussy Galore/Blues Explosion)*, Spinal Tap, Candi Staton, Supergrass, John Taylor (Duran Duran), The Temptations, Thrice, Thrill Kill Kult, Urge Overkill, Dave Vanian (the Damned), Veruca Salt, Vitamin C, Don Was, Craig Wedren (Shudder To Think, film composer), Ween*, Weezer

Moguls and madmen

Author Terence McKenna; Industrial/interior designers: Dodd Mitchell, Thomas Schoos; Master mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim; LPGA Pro-golfer Natalie Gulbis; Music Supervisors Karen Rachtman; Chris Douridas, Randy Poster, Happy Walters; Brett Gurewitz (Epitaph Records); Nightclub owner Jason Strauss (Tao, the Mansion, Lavo); Photographer/filmmaker Richard Kern; Rockstar Games’ Sam Houser & Terry Donovan; Skincare guru Kate Somerville; TV producer David Saltz; Water feature engineer Mark Fuller (WET Design); Professional poker player Jennifer Harman

Eva Longoria Ocean Drive January 2007

Sophie Monk Ocean Drive May 2007

Emmy Rossum Ocean Drive May 2008

Mila Kunis Ocean Drive August 2008

click to see full text:

MAGGIE GRACE

NATASHA HENSTRIDGE

REBECCA GAYHEART      SAFFRON BURROWS

STYLE of the Venetian/Palazzo

CARLA GUGINO        KELLY CARLSON

Here’s some attention from bloggers on the Annalynne McCord cover, again here

http://www.stalknblog.com/2008/11/annalynne-mccord-atlanta-peach-magazine-november-2008/

For Kristen Bell:

http://flisted.com/24066/kristen-bell-does-atlanta-peach-magazine/

http://www.beyondhollywood.com/gallery/kristen-bell-is-a-real-peach/

For Maggie Grace:

http://atlanta.metromix.com/events/photogallery/where-were-you-did/557039/content

Go Bam Yourself

Emeril Lagasse’s fifth annual Carnivale du Vin brought the charity celebration of food and wine (benefiting his post-Katrina New Orleans-based Foundation for Children) back to Las Vegas, where it was first held, and fittingly so. With four outlets here, Vegas has been a second home of sorts for Emeril, and arguably no city better supports the solar system of star chefs. No less than fifteen of the 21 chefs (actually 24 + restauranteur Drew Nieporent) have Vegas venues, and those that don’t merely beg the question “why not you too?”–particularly Sam Choy and Norman Van Aken, who could really add to the scene here. But I digress.

Drew Nieporent is Number One. Or pointing upward. Not sure.

Without taking away from the evening’s sit-down auction (which raised $1.9 million I’m told, impressive in this economy), food and wine was certainly the center, presented at simple stations pairing each chef’s NoLa-inspired selection with a fine wine. Intriguingly, some of the chefs that might be considered lesser lights in this company, actually shone more brightly.

With Chef Kim Canteenwalla of Encore's Society Cafe

Kim Canteenwalla (whose Society just got tapped by Esquire as one of the year’s best new restaurants) offered tiny but elegant Nantucket Bay scallops on the half shell with bits of pancetta and a light Creole mustard vinagrette. Venetian/Palazzo’s Executive Chef of catering and room service Olivier Dubreil may not have a restaurant per se but he certainly know how to shine in this environment–his bites of crispy pork belly with fingerling potatoes under chervil emulsion were outstanding (Clearly there’s a reason he was recently named a Master Chef of France. I wish I could enjoy his food more often). A perennial local power, Valentino’s Luciano Pellegrini presented proscuitto-stuffed handmade bucatini pasta with petite sautéed pioppini mushrooms under creamy crescenza fondue (Notice how he kind of ignored the theme? Do you care? Didn’t think so). And Kerry Simon’s team served shrimp and grits, at once a simple selection and yet one of the most pretty presentations—certainly not hurt by being paired with Williams-Selyem’s special Carnivale du Vin cuvee (one of the most popular reds throughout the night)

Kerry Simon's Shrimp & Grits

Of the bigger names, Hawaii’s Sam Choy served a very satisfying tuna-salmon poketini: chopped sashimi in a martini glass over seasoned sushi rice, good enough to go back for seconds (hm, again, not a bit Cajun). Daniel Boulud certainly knew how to distinguish himself, serving bold boudin noir as well as an unannounced rich bisque. Norman Van Aken brought the funk with his slyly complex Louisiana Crawfish soup. Michael Mina offered excellent ruby red shrimp on toast (“po’ boy?” okay, whatever). And Charlie Palmer brought satisfying short ribs with seasonal pumpkin puree—though pretty much anything would pair well with Caymus’ ’06 Special Selection, equal parts fruit and earth.

Bradley Ogden's SD Bison tenderloin with creole stewed peppers and crispy shallot

Bisque by Boulud

From Chef Lagasse’s selections, his tequila and lime marinated fish tacos, paired with a Cabo Wabo margarita were a street-savvy standout. Batali erected a showy salumi scaffold over his station, hanging the housemade wares of his local Exec Chef Zach Allen, which were tasty treats–though the mini-muffalettas were served on dry bread to my taste. And while not unpleasant, certainly among the most underwhelming was Wolfgang Puck’s Kobe steak slices and braised macaraoni & cheese. Why he chose to highlight his less innovative Vegas outlets Postrio and Cut over the far more creative Spago and newly revamped Lupo to this $1000-a-plate crowd is anyone’s guess.

A couple a Rutgers grads.

During the auction, an elegant selection of cheeses were offered along with excellent Bissinger chocolates at the tables. After a climactic set by the Neville Brothers (highlighted by Emeril jamming on congas), an intimate afterparty upstairs at Table 10 with a pleasant Cajun buffet ended the night nicely. Anyone who avoided a food coma afterward should either be applauded, or pitied.

Emeril bamming it up with the Nevilles.

I stole this pic of the Umami Hatch Burger from a Yelper--the official website doesn't even have a pic!

The timing couldn’t have been better/worse. Just as I was finishing my odyssean quest to find the Best Burgers In Las Vegas three different friends enjoined me to check out the new burger joint in LA–well, new-ish–Los Feliz’s Umami Burger.  Of course I couldn’t say no. I was curious, at the very least, to see how it would compare to Vegas’ heavy hitters.

Set in the moderately updated raw space that previously housed a second location of Steven Arroyo’s Cobras Y Matadors, Umami Burger (this is actually a second location too–the first is in Hollywood proper) is appreciably no-nonsense. Usually LA boites spend more effort on the atmosphere than the menu, so the fact that this looks more like a spot in Williamsburg or Wicker Park got my notice right away. That’s not to say I necessarily liked the post-mod pseudo-Jap decor, or the raw lighting, just that it gave an air that owner Adam Fleischman (hmm, that doesnt sound Japanese) is more focused on the food.

The menu is barely more complex than that of In-N-Out. The Umami burger is a beef patty (what cuts and grade isn’t specified) studded with a proprietary natural rub that emphasizes the elusive fifth flavor (I thought they used to call that MSG, but what do I know?): it comes in six a la carte varieties ($9-11) and three “kombu” meals.

My dining companion, by the way, was one of my oldest friends, recently reaquainted on facebook. I mention it only to remark the resonance: Though he probably doesn’t remember, Dave was the first person with whom I ate sushi, and buffalo wings, and probably made a few other street-level food discoveries. He was with me the first time I wrote a (probably regrettable, surely forgettable) food review, on a mediocre Italian place.

We decided ordering two burgers just wouldn’t be enough to get an idea, so we ordered three to split–a signature Umami, the Hatch, and the Manly–along with the Hand Cut Fries and Malt Liquour Tempura Onion Rings.

The Umami was, as promised, a straight-up patty on a soft sweet eggy bun. Cooked medium-rare (bien sur) it delivered good beef flavor within a crispy but not overly smoky char. The softness of the bun loses the battle against the burger’s juice, making it a sloppy eat. The Hatch burger adds a crispy cheese fritter and four fried green chiles to the formula, giving the burger a nice sneaky slow burn that balances the meat’s fatty flavor well. The Manly adds bear-cheddar cheese, smoked salt onion strings and bacon lardons (basically, fat-heavy bacon curls) to the patty, overpowering any taste of beef. There are people who like that kind of thing…but they’re not the kind of people I care to associate with.

The sides had looked impressive on the other tables as we sat down. To be honest, they disappointed. Potato fries make a big deal about being hand cut (they are more than a 1/2″ thick square) and “triple-cooked.” You would expect them to be Belgian-style crispy, but they were in fact only mildly crunchy, a bit mealy and fairly flavorless. The big sexy onion rings were all puffy batter, again no crunch, and barely any flavor.

Luckily the condiments–particularly the Umami ketchup, which had a bit of plummy sweetness, and roasted garlic aioli mayo–helped them down (too bad Umami Burger’s food costs are so high they have to charge you for more than one sauce per burger. Wow, guys, you can’t give away 2 extra oz? That’s a tough business you’re running).

They do have a nice selection of beers, widely ranging in price.

The ice cream sandwiches looked fun, but hell, I was full already.

There are also lamb, turkey, veggie and pork burgers, sweet potato fries and house pickles I’d be curious to try. If I do, I’ll blog again.

P.S. On the Vegas scale, Umami Burger would have come in at about 5-6. Not quite as excellent as the best, but still a very fine burger–and almost half the price of the fancy Sin City versions.

Dodd Mitchell's My House nightclub

No two spaces are alike for hot LA-based interior designer Dodd Mitchell (click here to download PDF) who continues to top himself with one impressive restaurant or nightclub design after another. I was lucky enough to be able to print one of the more rare lengthy interviews with him.
Other intriguing designers I’ve interviewed include Thomas Schoos and Roger Thomas.