I’ll be honest: in years of covering the Vegas dining scene, I’ve really only experienced a couple handfuls of restaurants off-Strip (or more specifically, outside a casino resort) worth writing about. Granted, that is probably on par with what you might expect of an average Southwest city even if it didn’t have a foodie-frustrating overload of fine dining right in the middle of it. But particularly in Vegas, most anyone with serious chef talent is going to want to be on the Strip. That’s where most of the money is, easy or hard.

So three cheers for Vintner Grill, which soldiers on in suburban Summerlin, even after a couple sad closings nearby. Especially in tough times, it’s good to remember your local favorites deserve your support–especially when they earn it.

Despite being housed in a generic corporate office park, VG offers a dramatic, escapist atmosphere inside, dominantly white and lit by candlelight, with a woody club-like bar and outdoor patios offering cabanas for private dining. It’s the kind of place where you could easily spend all evening and not realize time passing. Romantic? yes, but not stuffy.

Nice cheese and charcuterie.

Chef/owner Matthew Silverman calls his menu “American dishes infused with Mediterranean flavors,” but it really doesn’t need definition–it’s merely eclectic without being unfamiliar, and familiar without being boring. Silverman updates not only seasonally but daily. Clearly the emphasis here is on quality and execution over showy creativity. Everything you order will somehow be more than you’ll expect, particularly in the range of entrees (which, ironically, is where most chefs tend to play it safer).

calamari

As the name would suggest, wine is obviously an emphasis here (although it would also suggest a “Grill” atmosphere…and there is none, nor even an emphasis on grilled foods. But that restaurant word’s overuse is one of my pet peeves). Sommelier Troy Kumalaa has assembled one of the nicest lists off-Strip, with a decent selection by the glass, although it didn’t strike me that there was a great deal of effort towards educating the customer or sharing new finds. I would like to think even suburban Summerlin is ready for deeper discovery.

Lamb osso bucco with toasted barley risotto, harissa, grilled blood orange and tangerine gremolata. Just perfect.

Although I visited at dinner, I would say you’re in great shape here for a nice business or social lunch. Just watch the time, because you’ll probably dread going back to the office.

Beef Stroganoff: A dish most wouldn't think to order but I'm glad my friend did: Incredibly hearty but complex and rich.

One note: Signage here isn’t great. But GPS it, and circle around and you’ll find the entrance. It’s worth the effort.

Vintner Grill